Pomegranate Extract provides potent antioxidant activity from ellagic acid (35-45%), and DPPH free radical clearance rate of which was confirmed to be 92% (0.5mg/mL) in vitro, 2.3-fold greater than that of vitamin C. In human skin models exposed to ultraviolet light (UVA/UVB), 5% pomegranate extract cream blocked the development of reactive oxygen species (ROS) by 78% and increased the activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD) to 124% of normal. A clinical trial of a brand of anti-aging serum (containing 10% extract) showed that skin elasticity (measured by Cutometer MPA580) was enhanced by 29% and wrinkle volume decreased by 33% after 8 weeks of use.
As for anti-inflammatory activity, the inhibition rate of Punicalagin on COX-2 enzyme was 2.8μM, 55% lower than that of ibuprofen. In a model of atopic dermatitis, the 3% extract gel reduced IL-6 by 67% and the frequency of itching from 6.5 to 2.1 times daily. In 2023, Dermatology Research reported that acne patients who used a pomegranate extract mask (3 times a week) reduced inflammatory papules by 58% and sebum secretion by 42%.
The ability to promote collagen synthesis is supported by evidence. Pomegranate extract (0.1mg/mL) can stimulate type I collagen gene expression in fibroblasts and increase collagen synthesis by 82% (ELASA). In a 12-week clinical study of an anti-wrinkle eye cream containing 5% extract, the collagen density (ultrasound) of the peri-orbital skin in test subjects improved from 62.3g/cm³ to 89.7g/cm³, and dynamic wrinkle depth was reduced by 41%.
Whitening effect is caused by the inhibition of tyrosinase activity. Pomegranate extract inhibition rate (1% concentration) on mushroom tyrosinase was 89%, 23% superior to arbutin. On a UV-induced pigmentation model, the serum containing 2% extract reduced melanin content by 64%, an activity comparable to 4% hydroquinone without causing irritation. Within six months of using an Asian brand’s whitening product (containing pomegranate extract), the re-purchase rate was at 38%, and the average color spot area was reduced by 57%.
Barrier repair activity is remarkable. 7% pomegranate extract in a repair cream reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) from 18.3g/m²/h to 9.7g/m²/h (47% reduction), and restored stratum corneum lipid layers from 12 to 18 (confocal microscopy). In the post-operative management of laser, the ingredient accelerated the repair of the skin by 40% and reduced the time to resolution of erythema from 7.2 days to 4.3 days.
The anti-pollution protection was assessed experimentally. Pomegranate extract (0.5%) blocked adhesion of PM2.5 particles by 91% and reduced carbon particle deposition into the skin by 83% in the smog exposure test. Field testing of a city protection spray containing pomegranate extract showed that spray users had 56% less 8-OHdG, a marker of skin oxidative stress, and 69% less clogged pores.
Market data attests to its commercial value. Global sales of skincare products containing pomegranate extract totaled 780 million in 2023, with a growth rate of 21,120 /30mL) 120,000 units sold in the first month and Cosme Grand Award Gold Medal winner since it was supported by clinical data (fine line improvement effect visibility was 91% visible in 28 days). The price of raw materials means that the food-grade extract is around 85/kg (ellagic acid ≥40220/kg), and the premium space is 300%-500%.
Synergistic preparations promote performance. Pomegranate extract, when mixed with vitamin C (ratio 1:2), has a free radical clearance rate 38% higher than that of single use, and a transdermal absorption rate of a compound essence (Franz diffusion cell test) of 62%, 27% higher than that of single component products. If used in sunscreen products, the addition of 3% pomegranate extract can increase the actual protection of SPF30 formula to SPF41 (in vitro test).
Security is strictly screened. Pomegranate extract sensitization rate was as low as 0.17% (50,000 people patch test), and there was no light toxicity (3T3 NRU phototoxicity test IC50 > 1000μg/mL). The EU ECHA database discloses an Environmental Risk Index (ERI) of 0.03, a “very low risk” raw material. It is approved for use in cosmetics in 89 countries around the world with a maximum additive volume of 10% (China Food and Drug Administration 2023 standard).